The Revival
The late Tun Endon’s interest in promoting cultural heritage and keeping it alive began with her work on the Nyonya Kebaya, notably through the publication of her book The Nyonya Kebaya: A Showcase of Nyonya Kebayas from the Collection of Tun Endon Mahmood in 2002. She went to many places in Penang, Malacca and Singapore, interviewed several knowledgeable, members of the Baba and Nyonya communities. This research gave insights into the culture that produced, among others, the Nyonya Kebaya. The book was launched on the 2nd of November 2002 at Shangri-La Hotel, Kuala Lumpur.

What followed can only be described as a revival – of interest in the Kebaya as a fashion icon in Malaysia, and in Peranakan culture overall. Old books on the Kebaya, its related accessories and Peranakan culture were dusted off and made into glossy new editions.

The Events that were significant to the promotions of Nyonya Kebaya as Malaysian cultural heritage are illustrated below :-

• A set of Malaysian postage stamps featuring the late Tun Endon’s Nyonya Kebayas were issued by Pos Malaysia in November 2002;
• An exhibition of the late Tun Endon’s collection, entitled “The Nyonya Kebaya: A Showcase” was held at the National Art Gallery in Kuala Lumpur in 2003;
• A Symposium on the Kebaya, entitled “The Nyonya Kebaya : Facets of Interest” was held in 2003 and it was well attended by leading experts of the Peranakan Community and members of the public. A Buyers & Sellers Meet was held where rare and antique peranakan goods were on sale;
• A fashion design competition, entitled “Kebaya: The Expressions”, aimed at encouraging young fashion design students to rediscover the silhouette and craftsmanship of the Nyonya Kebaya was held in 2003;
• An exhibition, entitled “Nyonya Kebaya : A Living Art” was held at Galeri Petronas at the Kuala Lumpur City Centre, Kuala Lumpur in 2005;
• An exhibition of the late Tun Endon’s Kebaya collection, entitled “Nyonya Kebaya: A Living Art”, was held in 2005 at the Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore.
• An exhibition of the late Tun Endon’s kebaya collection, entitled “Nyonya Kebaya:Women’s Costume from Malaysia”, was held at the Immigration Museum, Melbourne, Australia in 2007.

A second edition of the book, entitled The Nyonya Kebaya: A Century of Straits Chinese Costume, was published by Periplus Editions in 2004. Launched at the National Museum in Kuala Lumpur, it is now distributed worldwide.

Chinese traders first came to Southeast Asia around the 13th and 14th century and settled in Malacca and the coastal areas of Java and Sumatra. During their long sojourn in this region, many married local women and established families in many of the port cities. It is believed that the Peranakan Chinese were the descendants of these early families. Although absorbing the language and culture of their adopted home, the Peranakans retain many of their traditional beliefs and practices. They continue to engage in ancestor workship and celebrate weddings and festivals according to Chinese customs.

Peranakan men were given the honorific title of Baba and the women, Nyonya. Traditionally, Peranakan women were the homemakers. Besides running the household, one of their more time-consuming occupations was their indulgence in beadwork and embroidery. This was partly because the quality of their handiwork was a measure of their marriageability. An aptitude for exquisite craftsmanship not only reflected well on a Nyonya’s skills and patience, but also on her strict and proper upbringing. Therefore, much of Peranakan beadwork and embroidery was the product of meticulous wedding preparations.

The Kebaya was believed to have emerged in the 19th Century and first worn by the Dutch Eurasian Nyonyas in the form of Kebaya Renda (Kebaya decorated with lace).